If you’ve ever seen a beautiful driveway gate start sagging, binding, or tilting after a couple of winters… you already know the villain: the foundation. At Gateway Automation, we obsess over posts and footings because they decide whether your gate glides for decades—or becomes a very expensive lawn ornament.

Here’s how we build gates that stay true and plumb, season after season.

Steel Hinge Posts: Built to Resist Movement

Most gate problems start at the hinge post. Wind load, opening/closing cycles, soil heave, and the sheer cantilevered weight of a gate put serious torque on that one point.

Our standard for steel hinge posts:

• 24″ sonotube foundation

• Installed to ~6 ft below grade

Yes, that’s deeper and wider than what’s “common.” We do it because a larger, deeper footing dramatically increases resistance to frost heave and long-term lean. The cost difference in concrete is minor compared to the cost—and frustration—of a tilting post and a misaligned gate.

Why it works:

• Depth helps get below typical frost action and reduces seasonal movement.

• Diameter spreads the load, resisting rotational forces from the gate’s cantilever.

• Steel + concrete act together as a rigid anchor for smooth operator performance.

Masonry Pillars: Beauty Without Bearing the Load

Stone pillars look incredible—but stone should not carry the gate’s weight. Mortar joints aren’t designed for hinge torque, and the result can be cracking, spalling, and premature failure.

For more than 25 years, we’ve used a dedicated internal steel hinge post system for masonry gate installs:

• A heavy steel hinge post is cast into the foundation from the footing up.

• The steel post—not the stone—carries the entire gate load.

• Your masonry becomes what it should be: a protective shell and architectural finish, not a structural hinge point.

Benefits of this method:

• Protects stonework from shear and torsion

• Keeps hinges aligned longer (better swing, less binding)

• Simplifies service and adjustments without disturbing the pillar

Why We Don’t Gamble With “Good Enough”

A gate doesn’t fail all at once—it drifts. You start compensating with more operator force, then hinges wear, latches don’t meet, safety photocells misread, and the stone starts to crack. A robust foundation solves 90% of that storyline before it begins.

Steel Post vs. Masonry Pillar: How to Choose

• Modern, minimalist look / tight footprint?
  Go steel hinge post—clean, efficient, rock-solid.

• Architectural statement / heritage look?
  Go masonry pillar with internal steel hinge post—all the beauty, none of the structural risk.

Either way, the hinge load goes into engineered steel anchored in properly sized, deep footings.

Our Installation Checklist (What We Won’t Skip)

• Proper footing excavation and spoil management

• 24″ sonotube, ~6′ depth for steel hinge posts (site conditions considered)

• Correct rebar and anchoring for the hinge post assembly

• Concrete placement and cure time respected (no rushing to hang weight)

• Hinge alignment and preload set for the specific gate and operator

• Final swing/force testing for smooth automation and safety devices

Care & Maintenance: Keep It Smooth

• Annual hinge inspection and lubrication

• Operator force check and safety sensor test

• Seasonal sweep of debris/ice around swing path

• Visual check for post/plumb and pillar condition

The Bottom Line

A great gate starts with great groundwork. Whether you choose steel hinge posts or stone pillars, the key is the hidden structure that carries the load. Our deeper, wider foundations and load-bearing internal steel system for masonry are why our gates stay straight, swing clean, and protect your investment for the long haul.

Thinking about a new automated gate—or rescuing one that’s started to lean? Let’s design the foundation first. The rest gets easy.